Ama Dablam 2016

Ama Dablam
The infamous and beautiful Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam 2016 – who is it for?

If you are a seasoned all round mountaineer and are wanting to do your first Himalayan peak then this trip to climb Ama Dablam will be right up your alley. Or perhaps you have visited Nepal already and want to do something higher or harder than Mera or Island peak. Alternatively maybe you are just awe inspired by the name, sight and size of the mountain and just want to give it a go.

The terrain on Ama Dablam is fantastic and consistently easier than it looks (it is a pretty daunting mountain from afar). Having said that a good head for heights and being happy with exposure is an absolute necessity.

People often hear that there are sections of VS or HVS climbing, that it is Scottish grade III out of Camp 3 or that you have to be able to do 5a moves. In all honesty the harder sections are fixed and it is up to you, on a personal basis, to decide how you want to climb the mountain.

Some folk will want to solely jumar to get to the top, some may want to clip a cowstail in to the fixed ropes and climb the harder sections safe in the knowledge that they are protected, and others will perhaps want to do a combination of various techniques. It is entirely a personal choice and since we all have different threshholds it is up to you to decide how you want to tackle it (and if you want to carry all your own loads and do it Alpine style then go for it – it’s how I did it in 2003).

But regardless of all that, rest assured that I conduct a comprehensive training session at Ama Dablam Base Camp, on appropriate terrain, to cover all the situations that you may be faced with.

For a comprehensive overview of the minimum requirement please have a look at the suggested list of skills you should have.

If you need to brush up on your crampon and ice axe techniques prior to coming to Ama Dablam then why not come to Scotland for a few days this winter where you can prepare for the trip? If you have already signed up for the trip, and paid a deposit, you’ll get a 15% discount on the instruction fees (minimum 2 days). And you can always bring a friend to split the cost.

Yes, I’d like to go to Scotland


Staffing

The ratios that I use are between 1:2 and 1:3 depending on the group size. For instance, in 2005 we managed to get 13 clients (out of 15) and 3 Climbing Sherpas on the summit. In 2013 we got 17 (out of 19) clients on the summit on 7 separate summit bids and the Climbing Sherpas summited 12 times between them. The expeditions were an unprecedented success. The Climbing Sherpas that we use are amongst some of the most experienced that there are. Padawa has climbed Ama Dablam more times than he can remember and is also an Everest summiteer (19 times), Cho Oyu veteran and has been high on K2. You are in VERY experienced and capable hands.

Ama Dablam Camp 2
Looking down on Camp 2 from the Grey Couloir, Ama Dablam

What’s included

  • Ama Dablam Peak Fees
  • Liaison Officer
  • Sirdar
  • Climbing Sherpa(s)
  • Base Camp Sherpa(s)
  • Cook crew
  • Administration fee for our expedition agent in Nepal – I use one of the premiere trekking and climbing agencies in KTM. They have a proven track record of providing an excellent service, are able to provide full support throughout the expedition and have a tried and tested emergency call out procedure should the need arise
  • My fee for administration and planning prior to the expedition and technical support, guiding, instruction, planning and logistics during the expedition
  • Trekking and teahouse arrangements to / from Ama Dablam Base Camp
    Full porter support to / from Base Camp
  • Catering and sleeping arrangements during our stay at Base Camp on a full board basis (this includes 3 course meals, services of cook crew, camping equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, kitchen utensils etc)
  • Single tent for individual use at Base Camp (with foam mattress provided)
    Solar charging at Base Camp (priority given to the Sat phone and comms equipment)
  • Snacks and goodies for rest days including olives, gherkins, pate, crackers and cheeses, TangfasticsT, various chocolatey bars from the UK, proper coffee, cashew nuts, pistachios etc etc. You will not be disappointed.
  • Tents, pots and pans for use on the mountain
  • Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp. There is a really varied menu with a good mixture of things for you to choose from.
  • Porterage of group equipment to Advance Base Camp and Camp 1 (I don’t allow porters to go beyond Camp 1 as the terrain becomes too technical)
    Ropes, climbing gear required for equipping the mountain, ice screws, snow stakes etc
  • Comprehensive 1st aid kit including antibiotics and medicines for use at altitude (Note: there is also a 1st aid post at Pheriche which is manned with Western doctors throughout the trekking season which is only a couple of hours away)
  • Insurance for Nepalese Base Camp crew
  • Insurance for the Climbing Sherpas
  • Insurance for porters
  • Internal flights KTM / Lukla / KTM
  • Departure tax KTM / Lukla / KTM
  • Airport transfers in KTM
  • National Park entrance fees
  • Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
  • Hotel arrangements in Kathmandu on a twin shared basis
  • Feeding arrangements in Kathmandu

What’s not included

  • International flight (approx £750-£800)
  • Entry visa (approx £40)
  • Inoculation / vaccination costs
  • Travel and medical insurance – MUST include helicopter rescue and repatriation (see here for further details)
  • Hire of any equipment for personal use
  • Portering of personal equipment beyond Base Camp
  • Tips for the staff (approx US$120 in GB£, US$, €uros or Rs)
  • Climbing Sherpa summit bonus (US$300 – in GB£, US$, €uros or Rs)
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Drinks with meals in Kathmandu
  • Any drinks and/or food during the trek other than that which is provided by the crew (e.g. soft drinks, snacks, alcohol, etc etc).
  • Spending money
  • Unscheduled Hotel / teahouse stays and restaurant meals (e.g. if delayed departing KTM or Lukla)
  • Any costs incurred if leaving the expedition early
  • Any costs incurred if the expedition ends early (e.g. bringing your international flight departure forward)
  • Any international freight charges in the event that your bags don’t arrive in Kathmandu from Lukla due to any delays prior to your departure from Nepal.
Ama Dablam ridge
Click the photo to be transported to a 360 view below Ama Dablam.